Time of Dahlia Flowering
It is not possible here to give more than a general outline of the principles underlying timing, but as an approximation it can be assumed that a burl is formed on a giant decorative approximately six weeks after stopping, provided the plant at the time is in a fit state to be stopped, as explained earlier in the chapter, and that it will take a further four weeks for this bud to expand to the maximum sized bloom.
Some of the branches are secured direct to these additional canes, whilst the rest are retained by making a tie right round the outside of the canes. In the case of the giant cactus and clecoratives provide a supporting cane for every stem.
This is however a rather expensive method if a large number of plants are grown, and some growers simply wire the rows of stakes together with stout galvanised wire, stayed at each end to keep the rows taut. Some branches are looped back to the main stake, others are looped to the wire, and an odd cane or two provided for those branches which would be damaged if forced back in this fashion. It is important in any case to ensure that no branch is forced too far out of position as it is likely that this will cause it to be unseated from its socket.
The second is the removal of all pests. The dahlia is peculiarly susceptible to attack at this time; earwigs and slugs in particular will completely ruin a plant in a matter of days if allowed complete freedom. Slug bait should be used and the plant dusted or sprayed at intervals with Gamma B.H.C., or a similar insecticide. B.H.C. is recommended because this is also effective against aphides. There are a number of branded insecticides on the market containing this.
Although this may seem a great deal of trouble, it is better to take such precautions than to have the heartbreaking sight of a strong healthy branch broken off later in the season, particularly on a plant well thinned out for giant blooms of exhibition quality. For the same reason it is essential to tie in the branches as these develop, and this is a task that must never be neglected.
If, however, the strict application of this principle would mean that a stout shoot would be removed and a very weak or damaged shoot retained, it is good sense to vary a little from the automatic selection in such instances and retain the better of the pair. It might even be necessary to remove both shoots and retain growth lower down the plant, or even to retain two shoots developing at the same level. This procedure is only a guide. - 2368
Some of the branches are secured direct to these additional canes, whilst the rest are retained by making a tie right round the outside of the canes. In the case of the giant cactus and clecoratives provide a supporting cane for every stem.
This is however a rather expensive method if a large number of plants are grown, and some growers simply wire the rows of stakes together with stout galvanised wire, stayed at each end to keep the rows taut. Some branches are looped back to the main stake, others are looped to the wire, and an odd cane or two provided for those branches which would be damaged if forced back in this fashion. It is important in any case to ensure that no branch is forced too far out of position as it is likely that this will cause it to be unseated from its socket.
The second is the removal of all pests. The dahlia is peculiarly susceptible to attack at this time; earwigs and slugs in particular will completely ruin a plant in a matter of days if allowed complete freedom. Slug bait should be used and the plant dusted or sprayed at intervals with Gamma B.H.C., or a similar insecticide. B.H.C. is recommended because this is also effective against aphides. There are a number of branded insecticides on the market containing this.
Although this may seem a great deal of trouble, it is better to take such precautions than to have the heartbreaking sight of a strong healthy branch broken off later in the season, particularly on a plant well thinned out for giant blooms of exhibition quality. For the same reason it is essential to tie in the branches as these develop, and this is a task that must never be neglected.
If, however, the strict application of this principle would mean that a stout shoot would be removed and a very weak or damaged shoot retained, it is good sense to vary a little from the automatic selection in such instances and retain the better of the pair. It might even be necessary to remove both shoots and retain growth lower down the plant, or even to retain two shoots developing at the same level. This procedure is only a guide. - 2368
posted by Frank Potter at 12:07 AM
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